Northern Neck, Virginia, Is One of many State’s Greatest-kept Secrets and techniques

Nestled between the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers on the Chesapeake Bay lies a Virginia escape that provides tranquility in spades. To cross the bridge to the peninsula referred to as the Northern Neck is to depart behind trendy life for a spot seemingly unmoored by its calls for.

The birthplace of George Washington, James Madison, and James Monroe, the Northern Neck is steeped in historical past. And, at instances, it could possibly really feel caught there, too. The area’s 1,100 miles of shoreline outnumber its roads and visitors lights mixed. And, its density of roughly 50 individuals per sq. mile is lower than half of 1 % of areas upstream on the Potomac. On “Northern Neck time,” there is no rush, and the earlier you embrace the area’s slower tempo of life, the earlier you may profit from its results.

It is this relaxed ambiance that lured chef Devin Rose again to the realm in 2018 to open his dream restaurant, Adrift. After rising up in his father’s Northern Neck eating places, Rose left to additional his culinary coaching, then returned to convey the meals he likes to the place he loves. Few have higher perception into the realm’s secrets and techniques and locations to eat.

Here is our information to the Northern Neck area in Virginia.

Greatest Locations to Keep

The Tides Inn

Arguably the jewel of the Northern Neck, The Tides Inn underwent a restoration in 2021 that created a residing shoreline with a boardwalk across the property. “What they’ve performed over the previous few years is fairly superb,” mentioned Rose. Ashore, understated magnificence, a spectacular setting, and earnest hospitality conspire to make sure company unwind in luxurious. The inn evokes such a way of serenity that it tempts one by no means to depart their Adirondack chair perched above the water. For extra energetic company, a full-time ecologist, horticulturist, and artist provide experiences like oystering, bird-watching cruises, and pinot and portray artwork lessons.

The Oyster Mattress at Merroir

Trip leases line the Northern Neck’s shores, many with lovely views and personal boat docks. However when you’re somebody who plans journey round meals, the place to e-book is simply over the bridge within the Center Peninsula. The restaurant Merroir is so alluring that some individuals spend an entire day there, alternating between oysters, beers, and extra oysters. Happily, The Oyster Mattress, a three-bedroom rental dwelling with glorious visitor critiques, is simply steps away. As a bonus, company take pleasure in entry to Merroir’s boat docks.

Greatest Locations to Eat

The Native or Chesapeake Doughnut Firm

Rose suggests beginning the day at The Native in Irvington, mingling with locals over custom-blended Blanchard’s espresso and a breakfast sandwich or avocado toast. Within the subsequent city over, White Stone’s Chesapeake Doughnut Co. additionally serves Blanchard’s espresso, together with traditional and artistic doughnut flavors and attractive sandwiches on home made biscuits or buns made out of doughnut dough.

Lee’s Restaurant

Lee’s Restaurant, positioned in Kilmarnock, has been run by the identical household for 80 years. “It’s like stepping again in time,” says Rose. “And I imply that in the very best method.” The waitresses name you “honey” whereas refilling your candy or unsweet tea. Order some scrumptious fried pickle fries, fried spicy inexperienced beans, or fried seafood. And at an old-school place like this, wedges of home made pie for dessert are a should.

Willaby’s

Throwing events in faculty is how William Barnhardt found his love of hospitality, and he has run Willaby’s ever since—for greater than three a long time. Sit inside or out on the riverfront pub, which even boasts its personal seashore. Select from comforts like Ma’s Oyster Stew and seafood sandwiches, and preserve a watch out for the reside music schedule. And don’t depart with out an order (or two) of the signature chargrilled oysters.

Miss Mary Seafood

When you desire to cook dinner, Miss Mary Seafood makes it straightforward. Seafood runs within the blood of co-owners Tony Ferguson and Lisa Carol, who supply from an unmatched community of native fishermen to supply what Rose calls the freshest seafood on the town. They know easy methods to cook dinner it, too, and are pleased to advise. “She’s a persona,” mentioned Rose. “She would do something for her clients.”

Outdated Farm Truck Market

It doesn’t get extra native than this White Stone store, which sells produce from its close by farm and different farms that share its sustainable, “past natural” practices. Rose says the “superior workers” may also help you construct a meal from among the identical elements he makes use of at his personal restaurant. Or, you may depart the cooking to the store. For its rotating array of ready meals, like soups, salads, quiches, hand pies, and stews, the market depends on French Culinary Institute graduate Joe Merolli, whose resume consists of NYC’s Le Bernardin.

Adrift

Rose’s restaurant, Adrift, is the must-get reservation on the Northern Neck. Right here, Rose serves no matter conjures up him from the native elements he brings in every week. “Recent is important” is the mantra he discovered whereas working at The Inn at Little Washington, and it now kinds his personal cooking philosophy: “fin to scale, nostril to tail, roots to leaf.” On a mission to raise the palates of locals and guests, Rose is aware of some diners transfer quicker than others. So, if uncooked oysters with kimchi-apple sorbet will not be your factor, there are alternatives for extra typical tastes, like Italian Night time on Tuesdays and Burger Night time on Wednesdays.

Merroir

It is no hyperbole to say cousins Travis and Ryan Croxton single-handedly revived Virginia oystering, a once-bustling trade that was almost extinct when the Croxtons launched Rappahannock Oyster Co. in 2005. Their oysters at the moment are served at prime spots across the nation, however there’s nowhere higher to take pleasure in them than the restaurant at their oyster farm. At Merroir, diners can gaze on the river whereas having fun with seafood plucked from it. “Watch the sundown right here,” mentioned Rose. “It’s a stupendous location.”

Salt & Meadow

The Tides Inn’s renovations additionally remodeled its time-worn eating room into Salt & Meadow, a blinding restaurant that opened in 2024 with a brand new look and culinary strategy. Wall-to-wall home windows and a contemporary colour scheme of blue hues are designed to convey the surface in for a coastal vibe. New government chef Kyle Perkins stresses native sourcing and contemporary elements, together with the addition of the property’s personal farm. “I really like what Kyle is bringing to the group,” mentioned Rose. Even higher, you don’t need to be an inn visitor to take pleasure in Salt & Meadow’s lovely setting whereas having fun with a drink on the bar or a meal within the restaurant.

Greatest Issues to Do

Hughlett Level Pure Space Protect

Serene sufficient for a threatened insect species—that may very well be the advertising pitch for this 104-acre pure space protect on the Chesapeake Bay. The northeastern seashore tiger beetle’s incapability to endure human disturbance has wiped it out all over the place besides three distant corners of the U.S., one in all which is Hughlett Level. The state’s methodology to guard the beetle from people is its car parking zone, which inserts simply 11 automobiles. When the lot is full, the protect is full. After a brief hike by a loblolly pine forest to the seashore, there is a feeling of near-complete detachment from the remainder of the world. “I can’t put it into phrases,” mentioned Rose. “Go and also you’ll perceive.”

Belle Isle State Park

For individuals who desire extra exercise, Belle Isle State Park’s mountain climbing trails, fishing, and bike and kayak leases await. With seven miles of shoreline, the 892-acre park has loads of area to discover tidal wetlands interspersed with farmland and upland forests.

Candy Sea Charters

The Northern Neck is surrounded by a lot water, it could be a disgrace to not spend time on it. That’s the place Candy Sea Charters is available in. When she’s not mentoring aspiring feminine sailors, Morgan Fraczkowski is escorting company round waterways on Candy Aria, her 33-foot Endeavour. Friends can select a bundle expertise or design a {custom} tour that may start with a pickup from a coastal Airbnb or marina, after which embrace sightseeing, waterfront barhopping, or dolphin-watching. To prime it off, the yacht serves Boat Packing containers with meals ready by Rose himself.

Windmill Level

For Rose, nothing feels extra just like the Northern Neck than the drive down Route 695 to its jap tip, Windmill Level. The highway transitions from pine timber to bayberries to marshland till reaching a small seashore. Rose says the drive itself is worth it, however when you go through the summer time, there’s a tiki bar to reward those that discover it.

Camp

Although there’s not a lot nightlife on the Northern Neck, Camp will be the closest factor. On weekends from the spring by fall, the non-public occasion venue opens to the general public. Huddle round fireplace pits below the celebrities whereas having fun with reside music, meals, and drinks.

Greatest Time to Go to

Whereas the Northern Neck by no means feels crowded, summer time is its busiest time. Late spring and early fall provide optimum tranquility. Early November brings the close by Urbanna Oyster Pageant. Whereas 50,000 individuals swarm Urbanna for the competition, the Northern Neck is an effective base away from the competition crowds, simply brief journey throughout the Rappahannock.

The way to Get There

Distant escapes, by definition, are laborious to achieve, however the Northern Neck is accessible from just a few cities. Richmond is roughly 76 miles west and Norfolk 88 miles south. There’s additionally water all over the place for individuals who journey by boat. However as soon as on land, you’ll want a automotive. There’s no public transportation, not even taxis or ride-share apps.