While you consider the Ionian Sea, locations like Kefalonia, Ithaki, Lefkada or Corfu more than likely come to thoughts. However tucked right into a deep pure bay lies Astakos —a small harbor city with an enormous story to inform. This quaint little fishing city is commonly neglected as only a ferry port en path to the islands, however Astakos is a vacation spot in its personal proper, providing a wealthy historical past and a slower rhythm of Greek life. I’ve not too long ago been invited to discover this lesser-known city, and I’d prefer to share my expertise with you.
The place Is Astakos?
Astakos is located on the western coast of mainland Greece, within the area of Aetolia-Acarnania, going through the Ionian Sea. It’s about an hour’s drive from Messolonghi.
The identify Astakos in Greek means “lobster,” nonetheless, its origins prolong deeper than seafood. In accordance with native custom, the city was named after King Astakos, a determine of historical Aetolia. He’s stated to have dominated this a part of western Greece, lending his identify to the settlement that grew by the ocean.
There’s additionally a extra playful clarification: in the event you take a look at Astakos from above, the form of its harbor resembles the physique of a lobster, full with slender curves and a large opening towards the Ionian. One other model says that when upon a time, the ocean right here was teeming with lobsters. In reality, there’s a species of noble crayfish present in Greek waters known as Astacus astacus—a scrumptious native specialty you’ll be able to nonetheless style right this moment within the tavernas by the harbor.
Staying in Astakos: Giannis Village Resort
We stayed at Giannis Village Resort, perched on the hillside simply 200 meters from the seaside. This 4-star resort is surrounded by lush greenery and gives breathtaking views of the Ionian Sea and the close by Echinades Islands. It’s the proper place to attach with nature. Within the morning, I used to be greeted by the sounds of a flock of sheep, roaming round just a bit additional off from the pool space. And within the night, in the event you pay attention fastidiously, you’ll hear the bray of a donkey—their native pet.
The resort options spacious flats with totally outfitted kitchens, cozy verandas, two swimming swimming pools, and health services. And the most effective half is the pleasant hosts who make this resort an ideal base for exploring each Astakos and close by locations, comparable to Lefkada and Preveza. When the climate turns cool, the in-room hearth provides a comfortable contact to your keep.
A Stroll By means of the Harbor
The center of Astakos is its harbor, lined with tavernas and cafés the place fishing boats relaxation quietly after a morning at sea. It’s right here that I tasted one of many city’s specialties—linguine with crayfish. Paired with ouzo and easy meze, eating by the harbor is the quintessential Greek seaside expertise.
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On the far finish of the harbor, proper throughout from Stratos Resort, you’ll additionally discover the city seaside—a handy spot for a refreshing swim steps away from the cafés and waterfront promenade.
Crusing to the Echinades Islands
One of many highlights of our journey was setting sail with native fisherman Captain George Aleuras to the Echinades Islands. These uninhabited islets could look peaceable right this moment, however historical past tells a special story.
In 322 BC, the Battle of the Echinades was fought right here in the course of the Lamian Struggle, when Athens and the Aetolian League challenged Macedonian rule after Alexander the Nice’s demise. Underneath the command of Cleitus the White, the Macedonian fleet defeated the Athenians, marking the decline of Athens as a naval energy.
Centuries later, in 1571, these waters have been the positioning of the well-known Battle of Lepanto. The Holy League—Spain, Venice, Genoa, and the Papal States—confronted off towards the Ottomans in some of the important naval battles of all time. Although outnumbered, the Christian fleet secured a decisive victory, ending Ottoman dominance within the western Mediterranean. Amongst those that fought was Spanish author Miguel de Cervantes, who misplaced the usage of his left hand within the battle.
Right now, the islands are calm and wild. And on the close by uninhabited Atokos, you’ll be able to even swim alongside wild pigs. You may organize this distinctive journey by means of George.
What Fishing Means to Astakos
Captain George, who spent a decade working in Iceland earlier than returning to his homeland, spoke with us concerning the realities of life at sea. He defined how he usually strikes between the Ionian islands to seek out the most effective marketplace for his catch, but this yr his haul is down by greater than 50%—a decline he attributes to local weather change and shifting fish populations.
He confirmed us photographs of huge tuna caught in these very waters—some weighing over 400 kilos and longer than a person is tall. Touchdown a fish of that measurement isn’t any straightforward job; it could take hours of persistence and ability, and carries actual dangers. He instructed us that catching a fish of this measurement ought to by no means be executed alone. George even demonstrated the specialised hooks he makes use of for such catches, giving us a glimpse into the demanding craft of a fisherman.
We additionally met Mr. Spyros Kounadis, head of the native fishing affiliation, and his spouse Eirini, who joined us briefly on the boat. They shared extra concerning the difficulties fishermen face right this moment, together with a considerable lower in catches and competitors from fish farms. But regardless of the challenges, they proceed to assist initiatives that maintain Astakos’ fishing traditions alive—most notably by means of the event of fishing tourism.
Guests can now be a part of George on genuine excursions—studying methods to fish, exploring the islands, and even cooking and having fun with your catch proper on the boat. It actually doesn’t get brisker or extra actual than that. To e book your expertise, contact George on +30 694 773 8170 or by means of his Fb Web page right here.
Aristocratic Previous: Neoclassical Properties and Oak Wealth
Although Astakos is a small fishing city, we learnt that it as soon as loved a extra cosmopolitan life. We joined Vasilis Zagkotas, a faculty instructor and historian, on a guided stroll round city. Vasilis is initially from Serres, a metropolis in northern Greece, however he selected to settle in Astakos due to its laid-back, coastal way of life.
Astakos has a number of deserted but elegant Neoclassical houses, which have been constructed between 1840 and 1930. There are two that notably stand out and are discovered close to the waterfront. One nonetheless boasts a grand wrought-iron gate, whereas one other has an unlimited orchard in entrance.
Astakos was formally organized with its city corridor in 1840 and its first faculty in 1842. The city’s prosperity got here from two major sources:
- Oak – prized for its timber and tannin-rich bark used for dye.
- Limestone – quarried right here and used within the development of vital buildings throughout Greece, together with the well-known Resort Grande Bretagne in Athens.
Among the many notable homes is the birthplace of Pantelis Karasevdas, Olympic gold medalist within the 200-meter rifle on the very first fashionable Olympic Video games in Athens, 1896. His house is situated close to the principle sq., and a plaque together with his identify is displayed there. Additionally, you will come throughout his bust, proudly standing within the city sq..
Native Companies: Lemonofarma and Astakos Olives
Astakos can also be house to small however inspiring native companies, which we had the chance to go to throughout our keep in Astakos.
Lemonofarma
Run by Kostas Lichnos and Chrysa Babouri, Lemonofarma turns the area’s citrus bounty into pure, additive-free lemonade. Bought as a focus, it’s each eco-friendly and refreshing. And in true Astakos spirit, the brand is—in fact—a lobster.
This household enterprise, located within the coronary heart of Astakos, could also be only some years outdated, however its secret household recipe has already turn out to be a neighborhood success. You may savor their recent lemonade in lots of the city’s cafés and retailers, usually served in specifically designed jar-style glasses that make the expertise much more memorable.
Astakos Olives
We additionally visited Astakos Olives, a family-owned enterprise run by Lazaros Kalantzis, his spouse, and daughter, together with just a few different devoted group members. I tremendously loved this go to as a result of the eagerness of this household for producing high quality merchandise is clear from the second you set foot on their premises.
Their facility produces premium olives, olives with herbs, olive paste, and cold-pressed further virgin olive oil. What units them aside is high quality: solely the most effective olives are used, and their state-of-the-art chilly press preserves most taste, vitamins, and aroma. They even share their gear with native farmers, serving to the entire group take pleasure in high-quality oil.
There’s a small store on web site the place guests should purchase merchandise straight from the manufacturing unit—excellent souvenirs to convey a style of Astakos house.
The place to Eat in Astakos
No journey to Astakos can be full with out having fun with its seaside tavernas, the place the day’s catch is served recent and easy. Listed here are just a few spots price attempting:
Blue Fish – Situated proper on the harbor, this taverna is a favourite for seafood lovers. It was right here that I loved a plate of linguine with crayfish. Paired with a glass of ouzo or chilled white wine, it’s a must-try.
Takis The Kalofagas – A conventional spot on the harbor the place you’ll discover hearty parts and genuine native flavors. From grilled fish to basic Greek appetizers, it’s the type of place the place locals collect, and the hospitality appears like house. That is the place we tried the small cod, caught by no apart from Captain George himself.
Maestros – One other glorious selection by the ocean, Maestros serves a variety of seafood dishes, meat dishes, meze, and refreshing salads. It’s perfect for a relaxed dinner.
Reference to the Ionian Islands
Astakos additionally connects to the Ionian Islands. From the port, the Ionian Pelagos ferry runs common routes to Kefalonia (Sami), with a length of two hours 20 minutes, and Ithaki Pisaetos (3 hours quarter-hour), making it straightforward to mix a keep in Astakos with an island-hopping journey. You may examine availability and purchase your tickets on-line right here.
Why Go to Astakos?
Astakos might not be on each traveler’s radar, however that’s precisely what makes it particular. With its dramatic bay, genuine fishing tradition, aristocratic historical past, and heat folks, this city is way over a ferry cease.
Add Astakos Greece to your itinerary—it pairs superbly with a go to to Nafpaktos, Messolonghi, and the Ionian Islands.
I used to be invited to go to Astakos, together with Journey Bloggers Greece, by BioEffect Greece. As all the time, all opinions expressed are my very own.
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