It’s almost 10 p.m. by the point we’ve made the four-hour journey from the capital metropolis Nairobi to Lake Nakuru Nationwide Park. Every part round us has fallen darkish and silent. For a second we overlook what could possibly be lurking within the distance out on this large 188-square-kilometre stretch of savanna dwelling to the wildlife I’ve solely seen on the Discovery Channel.
I’m worn out from the drive, and for now, my focus is attending to our resort and slipping into mattress. That’s till somebody makes out the shadow of one thing slinking simply forward of us.
‘Hyenas,’ our driver Lawince says, nodding in the direction of it. As our truck strikes nearer, I can see its mangy fur, ash brown and speckled with fats black dots. One thing in regards to the sight of it makes me shudder.
‘This implies you’re going to have an important safari,’ Lawince says. ‘Seeing a hyena is sweet luck.’
I’m wondering if this superstition is rooted in any type of mysticism, however extra probably the hyenas odor prey and there’s a little bit of darkish irony there.
There are 11 of us on this 7-day safari expertise round Kenya. We’re right here as part of Intrepid’s BIPOC mentorship journey for journey creators. As creators of color in an often-exclusionary trade, we’ve been introduced collectively to share data and assets but in addition to attach. Most of us have by no means been on safari, and some have safaried in different nations however by no means in Kenya. We’re all experiencing this primary collectively.
The following morning, I costume at daybreak in my greatest “Brooklyn woman goes on a safari” look; dishevelled cargos, a tee, Solomon sneakers and a Yankees fitted. Earlier than I meet the others for breakfast, I step out onto the again porch of my cabin to observe the solar rise. The air is so recent and so crisp.
A thick fog hangs over the nonetheless lake. All through the journey we’d arrive at most locations by evening, which meant each morning we noticed new life. Each morning was a shock. I take a deep breath and marvel what awaits us as we speak. As quickly because the tip of the solar peeks above the horizon, as if on cue, about 100 creatures I can’t identify burst into track.
I’ll admit, I don’t think about myself an animal fanatic, per se. I’m not one of many ladies that looks like an elephant is my kindred spirit, you understand? However there’s something completely mind chemistry shifting about being in shut proximity to an animal out within the wild, albeit from the security of a Landcruiser. It’s a sight your eyes can’t fathom; it takes a second to register.
Nearly as quickly as we pull out of the resort grounds and into the park we’re greeted by a pack of zebras. I change into fully enamored by them. The stark distinction of the black and white stripes on their pores and skin, how every sample is exclusive, intentional nearly. The way in which they appear to be horses however, additionally don’t? We press our faces to the glass and watch them in silent awe earlier than launching right into a debate about whether or not they’re white with black stripes, or black with white stripes. After giving us time to ponder, Lawince tells us it’s time to maneuver on.
‘Zebras are one other considered one of nature’s flowers,’ he says. And I snort pondering what a poetic option to say they’re stunning, however they’re in all places. A dime a dozen.
Lawince explains that the true focus of a Kenyan safari is the Massive 5: leopards, rhinos, lions, buffaloes and elephants.
‘I hope we see giraffes, too!’ Somebody quips.
And only some moments later, after we cease for a loo break, a giraffe walks proper previous us. Like proper there! I take into consideration the joys of the discover and the random luckiness of it, which actually may simply be the randomness of nature.
Whereas we await the toilet, a few of us escape into track and dance. Beyonce’s Cowboy Carter had simply come out and it grew to become our default soundtrack. I look out at our group; younger, fly, Black and Brown, deeply curious in regards to the world round us and free. It’s a robust sight.
A safari is a bucket listing expertise for thus many, and right here we’re. This journey is one thing I might’ve solely dreamed of. And as our journey continues, we’ll discover how we’re a number of the solely travellers of color on the market. A lot of the different vans we move are full of seemingly rich, older white folks. How unfair that they will extra readily entry these experiences in our Motherland, when so many who appear to be us can’t. If anybody deserves to be right here, we do. To not point out Kenyans themselves. As I watch white faces move us by in neighboring vans – typically looking at us as if we’re our personal kind of pure marvel – I discover a completely different type of security inside our Landcruiser, one that may solely be discovered when in neighborhood.
Lawince should’ve been proper in regards to the hyena, as a result of we noticed all of Kenya’s Massive 5 on our sport drives. Plus, giraffes and ostriches and monkeys and so many birds. Each time we noticed one thing our voices instinctively dropped to a hush, in order to not scare them off, but in addition in an unstated respect. Generally, although, it was onerous to include our glee, it was childlike – everybody’s faces lit proper up with the silliest pleasure.
Being on the market makes you understand simply what number of issues are alive, and you consider how there should be an artist at work as a result of how else do you clarify the sensation of witnessing a twister of pelicans within the sky, or the best way zebras dot the plains like bunches of black and white flowers.
After I get again to Brooklyn, I attempt to put all this into phrases for my pals, however I wrestle to actually convey the sensation. I swipe by means of footage of lions and leopards and even within the recounting it feels surreal. It’s nearly like I dreamed the entire thing.
I understand happening safari is actually a type of experiences it’s a must to have for your self. And I deeply hope that someday my pals again dwelling will. For now, I maintain onto the data that the reminiscence is alive amongst my newfound tribe. A shared expertise and connection that we’ll all without end maintain shut.
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