I by no means would have predicted that, of all of the highlights of my 12-day journey to Morocco, meals can be one in every of them.
Make no mistake, my low expectations had nothing to do with Moroccan delicacies, which I’d argue is beloved all over the world. Merely put, I’ve by no means been a foodie. Can I respect a high-quality meal and glorious service? Completely. However you’ll by no means discover me planning weekends away or holidays overseas round eating places to go to or dishes to strive. I noticed meals as gas to energy me round a brand new metropolis and comfort trumped expertise each time. But, all of this modified at an unassuming little cafe tucked within the Excessive Atlas Mountains – a spot that challenged and in the end modified my perspective on meals and the individuals who make it.
It was day two of our journey, and we had simply completed wandering via the Ksar of Ait Benhaddou, a powerful Eleventh-century citadel hidden within the foothills of the Ouarzazate province. Foreheads damp and cheeks sporting a faint layer of ochre mud, we welcomed the information it was time for lunch. Inside minutes our journey chief Brahim had led us to Tawesna Salon de The, a restaurant I’d quickly study was about far more than dishing up meals.
Like the remainder of the Ksar, the open-air eatery’s clay partitions blended seamlessly into the encompassing panorama. Taut sheets of beige canvas stretched throughout the courtyard, casting triangles of shade over the low picket tables. Brightly colored cushions and patterned straw rugs have been organized on the bottom in basic Moroccan fashion, bringing playful splashes of color to the house alongside vibrantly painted pottery and swaths of jewel-toned material. As soon as seated, we have been greeted by Nadia Baa Bouz, a petite, kind-eyed lady who smiled shyly from behind her inky blue headband. As Brahim poured steaming cups of candy mint tea, Nadia defined how Tawesna wasn’t only a place to eat however a product of the Tawesna Affiliation, an all-women cooperative.
At that second, a handful of girls emerged from the kitchen, their arms laden with massive plates. Nadia jumped as much as assist, and we watched the desk remodel right into a aromatic tapestry of Moroccan delicacies – crisp tomato and capsicum salads drizzled with olive oil and garnished with parsley, steaming bowls of hearty lentil stew, contemporary khobz (Moroccan flatbread) and, in fact, tagines. Lifting the intense orange, blue and inexperienced lids revealed scorching slabs of eggplant, potato, carrot and zucchini fanned round beds of buttery couscous. A heat, spicy aroma stuffed the air, and we might barely wait to dig in. The meals was, objectively, scrumptious but it surely wasn’t the wealthy flavours or balanced textures that made this meal so memorable; it was the folks I used to be with and the tales I heard.
Girls in large cities like Marrakech may match and dwell in a method acquainted to me however right here within the Excessive Atlas Mountains, alternatives to do something past family duties are uncommon. Then, Tawesna was fashioned and supplied a path to monetary independence, Nadia defined as we dug into the feast earlier than us. The ladies didn’t want fancy {qualifications} or specialised coaching both; the restaurant utilised the culinary expertise they have been taught as younger girls to generate earnings and develop in self-confidence.
It wasn’t simple, Nadia admitted. It’s taken a couple of years for Tawesna to seek out acceptance amongst locals with conventional views about girls and work, however at present they’re proud to be a favorite spot for residents and journey teams like ours. The latter was particularly essential, we’re advised. Monetary safety a profit, however the true pleasure comes from assembly folks from all over the world. Right here, on this humble restaurant, meals was a bridge – a method to deliver folks collectively and join even for an hour or two.
This deeper which means is older than the traditional citadel partitions. For so long as people have cooked, we’ve shared meals in rituals that may be seen in previous Bible verses and Instagram brunch images. An indescribable magic occurs when folks sit down and share meals and that is solely heightened when the meals can be a window into one other tradition, ready by individuals who begin as strangers however rapidly grow to be mates.
By the point we wiped our plates clear, my abdomen was full and my perspective was completely different. I hadn’t simply eaten however intimately skilled a bit of tradition and located connection midway across the globe. I’d tasted and discovered, been impressed by these counter-cultural girls and laughed alongside them about issues as common as household spats and soiled dishes.
The sweetness of this didn’t come from being enthusiastic about gastronomy or an professional on spices. It merely concerned being open to the alternatives introduced by a plate; to see the love and tradition combined right into a dish and lean into the house it creates for connections the place you least anticipate them.
If that’s what being a ‘foodie’ whereas travelling means, then contemplate me absolutely on board for the following meal.
Go to Tawesna Salon de The on varied journeys in Morocco, together with Morocco Uncovered and Premium Morocco Explorer.
